Easter Island and Peru day 7

            We are spending three nights at a 300-year old hacienda, one of the few in this part of the country that was not destroyed by the Shining Path terrorists years ago.  This one was occupied and burned by the guerrillas after they forced out the family and all the employees; it is now undergoing restoration by the family who has owned it for the past 100 years.  While the rooms do not have heat, the beautiful gardens here and the 80 acres under cultivation provide enough interest to make it a pleasant stay.  The proprietor is a 30-sometning member of the family who speaks good English and is providing us information about the surrounding area.  The hacienda provides employment to 20 local residents, and we strolled the grounds, watching them at their tasks with the farm animals and crops.

 Entrance to Hacienda la Florida

            Hacienda la Florida is located at an elevation just under 10,000 feet.  If you have reviewed the scientific journals, you know that one third of the earth’s atmosphere lies below that elevation.  This means that in Lima we inhaled 50% more oxygen with each breath than we have here. The pass at 16,000 feet last night made us both dizzy and breathless, so we are able to put up with the headaches that will persist until we acclimate in a day or so.  Meantime, the view from the grounds is magnificent, with high mountains surrounding it.

 View from the hacienda

            We drove into the town of Tarma, population 68,000, on what appears to be a market day.  Strolling the streets one could find all manner of fruits, vegetables, fertilizer, grains, and cheap wine.  Roger could not pass up a bottle of Peruvian wine at about $4.00, although much later in the day after our wine tasting he was kind enough to give most of it away to other, less discriminating individuals.

 Roger in the market at Tarma

 Grains, anyone?

            The people here for the most part are pure descendants of the original natives:  short, dark skinned, with distinctive features and often local dress.  We get a lot of stares, as few American tourists have Tarma, Peru as their dream destination.  But everyone is helpful and Roger knows enough Spanish from his U.S. Army days in South America for us to get around

            After a soup lunch in town (we’re watching our diet, you know), we headed out to watch the countryside from the main highway.  This particular road runs northwest to southeast, essentially following the top of the Andes range.  It was an afternoon of stunning views.

 Tarma in the distance from 12,000 feet

Farming terraces and clouds in the Andes

Typical mountainside village

            By nightfall, we have become somewhat acclimated to the altitude; the headaches are gone.  Everywhere in the market huge bags of coca leaves were for sale, and here in the hacienda, a bowl full is kept handy for all the workers and guests.  Coca tea is served for breakfast and the evening meal, and they show you how to roll up and fold the leaves to hold between your teeth to sooth your gums.  Supposedly it is good for deadening any pain one might have, such as headaches from the altitude.  Roger and I were afraid to try it, because someone mentioned they grind up the leaves into some kind of white powder that made us a bit queasy.  So we declined the offers of the leaves and coca tea.  Honest.

            This high mountain air really makes you feel good.  It was such a fun day we just can’t stop laughing about it.  Time for bed, they’re telling us.

Roger and Charlie

©2012