New Zealand day 5

           Continuing our recovery from the trip over, we took a 4-hour cruise through the beautiful Bay of Islands.  Passing by golden sandy beaches with backdrops of towering rock cliffs, we finally arrived at the Oceanic Center for Performing Bottlenose Dolphins.  At least, that’s what they should have called this area in open water where the local wild dolphins put on a fantastic show for everyone who comes out to watch.  Jumping, splashing, streaking by the boats a foot or so under water, these beauties had the crowd oohing and aaahing like crazy.  Sometimes two or three would jump at the same time in nearly the same place, and the act would apparently continue as long as anyone was willing to watch.

Nine-foot bottlenose dolphin entertaining the tourists.

            We cruised out to a place called, appropriately enough, Hole in the Rock.  The sea had gouged a hole through one of the many islands, perhaps 50 feet in diameter, and someone apparently dared our ship’s captain to take us through it.  He took the dare, and scared the bejabbers out of the entire crowd.  You take a look at the photos below and tell me you would have done it.

 Can you believe this ship passed through . . .

this Hole in the Rock?

            We stopped at one of the islands to take a look at the bay from atop one of the hills, and then headed over to Russell, which they might well call the cradle of New Zealand's civilization.

 Bay of Islands from a hilltop

 Russell’s waterfront

            If you suddenly were transported to a boat approaching Russell, you might guess you were approaching a charming New England village facing the sea.  And a little research might have led you to historical similarities as well as the physical ones.  Here we dined on the veranda of the first hotel licensed to operate in New Zealand, in the first European town ever formed in the country, built on the foundations of perhaps the first fortified Maori settlement.  Here, in the 1800’s, whalers, sailors, smugglers, escaped convicts, and prostitutes thrived, in this country’s answer to America’s Wild West.  Charles Darwin described the place as “full of the refuse of society,” before making a donation for the construction of Christ Church, New Zealand’s oldest church.  Even the tiny local gas station claims to be the oldest continuously operating gas station in the nation.

           Russell was also the site of great conflicts between the Maori and European settlers, who were really ticked off when a local Maori chief chopped down their flagstaff three consecutive times.  When he promised to cut it down a fourth time, the government sent in troops and marines to stop him; but a diversionary raid by his tribe had them all rushing off to one end of town in response, while the chief sneaked in from the other side and cut down the flagstaff for the fourth time.  The newcomers were forced to evacuate the town in the face of the Maori forces, but they got the last laugh when their ships’ cannons destroyed the town.  (Are you wondering at this point who really got the last laugh?)  Anyway, all is peaceful, now.

            On the way to the local beach for some sun, we discovered that high culture has made its way to this former backwater.  There, on the sidewalk leading away from the ferry dock, was a huge sign pointing to the greatest ice cream shop in all of the Bay of Islands—or certainly, at least in the town of Russell.  The list of flavors was fascinating by itself:  hokey pokey, blackcurrant & blackberry, lemongrass & ginger, affogato, passion fruit & lemon curd, dark chocolate chilli & raspberry, blueberry muffin.  Tricia insisted we try a cup or two (she denies this part--but I would recognize that little voice I heard anywhere).  I had the hokey pokey; she had the dark chocolate chilli & raspberry.  She shared a bit of hers with me.  I was in a hurry to get to the beach, so was unable to share any of mine with her.  In any event, the honey and caramel tastes in my affogato were out of this world.

Parasailers over the beach at Russell

          After some sun at the beach, we headed back to the ferry.  We just happened to take a route that took us back past the ice cream store.  The blackcurrant & blackberry flavor was almost as good as the affogato.

          Small world note:  joining us for dinner back at the B&B were a couple from a small village in the U.K. who had visited St. Marys, were familiar with Cumberland Island, and had spent a night in the Riverview Hotel.

          Tomorrow will be a long day on the road, as we head for Rotorua.  This country is only 10 miles shy of 1,000 in length, north tip to south tip. We are going to be doing a lot of driving here, so it's time to check the tires and fill up with petrol.

Charlie & Tricia

©2013