Sunday, February 24, 2013

New Zealand days 18 and 19



           
En Route to Te Anau

          From Cromwell we drove around Queenstown and down to Te Anau, nearly wrecking the car several times as both of us tried to take in the unbelievable landscape all along the way.  We tried to capture some of it in photographs, especially the thin cloud layer halfway up the mountainsides across the incredibly blue lakes; but it was impossible.  Our B&B hosts for two nights had arranged a little guided hike along the nearby lake so we spent three hours or so walking through a magnificent forest, stopping at lakeside from time to time to look at the lakeside beaches and to watch the people who had escaped from the institute water skiing and swimming in the subfreezing water.  Actually, the weather here is warmer than up north in the Bay of Islands, and short sleeves are the order of the day.

 Lake at Te Anau

            In the evening our hosts joined us for a fun and delicious dinner at their favorite local restaurant.  We ate local fish, lamb, vegetables of all kinds, and dishes we didn’t recognize.  We ate until we thought we could not possibly hold another crumb.  But then the server brought out the dessert menu.
 Dessert menu at Red Cliff House Restaurant in Te Anau

            One member of the group of four--egged on by the other three, it must be said—enjoyed two new flavors, since the homemade ice cream choice included three flavors.  The banana scoop included little bits of banana, and was reported to be the best banana this person had ever tasted.  He raved about the beetroot, cranberry, and chocolate scoop, and was simply apoplectic over the lemon curd and coconut.

            Next morning, it was off early on a guided bus-and-boat tour to the northwest of town.  We did the tour because neither of us wanted to drive the 120 kilometers to Milford Sound, said to be one of the most beautiful drives on Earth.  We can honestly report that we have no issue with that claim.  Past miles and miles of mountainous countryside with raging rivers and high waterfalls we went on the 22-passenger bus, stopping from time to time to try to memorialize the trip with the camera.  We finally arrived at a dock where we boarded a small ship to tour the area that TripAdvisor has declared the top tourist destination on the planet.

 Roadside view en route to Milford Sound

            Milford Sound, like the other 13 sounds on the southwest coast of the South Island, is not a sound at all.  As everyone knows, sounds are created by the action of rivers.  Milford was created over several ice ages by glaciers, which makes if a fiord.  At the time the fourteen “sounds” were named, no one realized how they had been created, and once they found out, were too stubborn to change.  Milford also has the distinction of having been missed by Captain Cook—not once, but twice.  Cook had a policy of sailing at least 4 miles off the coasts, to help prevent running aground, and this fiord is impossible to detect from that distance because its entrance is almost parallel to the coast.  It was discovered only by accident by a captain in a terrible storm who was running close in to try to find shelter.  He thought he saw a small inlet, but upon entering found this most magnificent fiord.

            As we’ve done before, we will make no effort do describe the 4,000 foot sheer mountainsides, the water, the waterfalls, or the majesty of the place.  This fiord would only be insulted by the pathetic effort.

Entering Milford from the Tasman Sea

 Waterfall in Milford Sound

Inside Milford Sound

            An interesting part of the tour was a visit to an underwater observation center, where we could see the aquatic life from about 50 feet under the surface.  There were lots of strange and interesting fish down there.  We are awed beyond description.

  Strange fish in Milford's waters

Charlie & Tricia
©2013

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