French Polynesia day 15

     Our last day here was, appropriately you might suppose, an overcast one.  And while the beauty of Moorea in the distance, as seen from our hotel room balcony, was still a wonder to behold, we had no intention of staying inside.  We decided to take in the sights by driving the 65 miles or so around the perimeter of this mountainous island, and will share those briefly with you.  We first stopped by the Musée de Tahiti et das Îles, where we saw numerous archaeological artifacts and photos from the 1860’s, but almost nothing of how the original inhabitants conducted their daily lives.  That will have to be a subject for future study.

Clouds and mountains on Tahiti

     The highest mountain here rises over 6,000 feet, and after the mountain climbing adventure on Maupiti, no one suggested a hike to the top of Tahiti.

Surfers at Ahonu

     First stop was to watch the crowd of surfers at Ahonu surf break, along one of the island’s black sand beaches, from a lookout above the waves.  Surfing is said to originate here, and everywhere we went along the coastal road, there seemed to be a crowd of young people honing their skills.  Most of them were using a paddle while standing upright to help them catch the waves, and it was interesting to watch the watchers as well—most of them had boards as they evaluated the competition and the waves.

Lighthouse at Point Vénus

     We stopped by a lighthouse built in 1867, said by our guide book to be impressive.  We weren’t much impressed, but were overjoyed to find there was a gift shop next door.

Haamarere Iti and Haamarere Rahi Falls

     After lunch, we hiked up to three waterfalls and enjoyed their beauty.  Two of the falls deserved a movie, but the water was too cold for a dip.

Last meal at Le Coco’s

     After a beautiful sunset from our balcony, it was time for our last meal here.  It a gastronomic delight at a nearby oceanfront restaurant, with the huge waves crashing 50 feet or so from our table.  Before we say goodbye for now, a few random observations from this trip:

•If a woman becomes pregnant in the islands, thirty days before the due date she is flown free of charge to the hospital in Tahiti, where she is given free room and board until the delivery and for days afterward.  All expenses of childbirth are taken care of by the government, no questions asked.  The people who explained this to us seemed to believe it was all free.  They had no comprehension of the relationship between taxes and government services.  This is both a blessing and a curse for a people who may someday demand independence.

•Whatever you do on Bora Bora, do not rent a car from the Avis people for more than two hours unless you want to be charged $45.00 for less than a gallon of gas.

•The little terminal at Ra’iatea airport is simply a roof supported by columns, with no need for doors because it is completely open.  On a wall there is obscurely posted a government evacuation drawing, professionally prepared, with green arrows pointing outward in all four directions all around the perimeter.  One wonders (a) what possible benefit this sign can deliver, (b) what is being spent on similar signs in open buildings throughout the country, and (c) whether anyone other than the poster has ever noticed this sign.

•On the subject of signs, in all the airports are the obligatory ones pictorially describing items that cannot be taken aboard aircraft:  fireworks, batteries, knives, liquids, etc.  But except for the international airport on Tahiti, there are no security lines, no one checking your carry-ons, and apparently no one really caring what you bring onto the plane.  This is my kind of country.

•Never put a significant amount of foreign currency in a place you might forget it—like your pants pocket—or you might be stuck with no way to convert it to dollars on an early morning flight out of a country.

•Going away all day and leaving all your cash, cameras, computers, and clothing in a bungalow without locks, with doors wide open to allow the cooling breezes, gives to some a feeling of insecurity and to others a feeling of hope and optimism.  This writer chooses hope and optimism.  There is a reason there are no wall safes and few locks on the out islands.

 •If you are in Tahiti during the Halloween season, don't spend your money on the pumpkin ice cream.  It is almost tasteless, like someone put a bit of orange flavoring into a container of chemical glop.  Yuck!

     We’re completing this report aboard Air France, en route to Los Angeles, where we’ll spend a couple of nights with a math genius named Josie and her parents.  Be sure and tell Tricia what you think of all her photos when you see her.  We hope you’ll join us on another trip soon.

Sunset from room 659 at Le Meridien Tahiti

Charlie and Tricia

©2012