Wednesday, October 3, 2012

French Polynesia day 3


AAAARRGGH!

 Intruder out front

            This morning we awoke to the sight feared by land-bound tourists everywhere:  a cruise ship in our back yard!  As you can see, as we walked from our bungalow to the picnic table where we are served breakfast each morning, we were shocked to discover a 2400-person cruise ship parked just three hundred yards in front of our favorite snorkeling spot.  Fortunately, the passengers were being ferried to a spot two miles away, where we anticipated every dive shop, black pearl salesman, and tour guide were eagerly waiting to part the lucky travelers and their cash.  Just as fortunately, we did not have to face hordes of tourists overrunning our island, and we proceeded to have a normal day in paradise.  Wonder if this is where our friends Tony and Linda Ferren came during their recent cruise here.

 Our little bungalow

            Our B&B is near the northeast end of Oponohu Bay, where the great explorer James Cook anchored during his visit to these islands. The Polynesian scenes in the 1984 movie Bounty were filmed here, and it is far less developed than Cook’s Bay just to the east of us.  You might be asking yourself why our bay is not named Cook’s Bay, since there is no evidence that Captain Cook spent any time in that other bay.  The best explanation we have heard so far is not a good one, but it goes like this:  a sloppy cartographer mislabeled the two bays on one of the first maps of Moorea, and no one ever thought it worthwhile to change the names back.  Other possible explanations are (a) the original inhabitants didn’t think much of Cook or the Europeans who took over the islands, and therefore didn’t want to glorify him by naming anything in his honor, and (b) the French had no use for anything British, and saw it as an insult to name the wrong bay for Cook.  You choose.  Anyway, today was for touring the island.

 Palm tree and sailboat on Moorea

            There are other little oddities we noticed after renting a car today.  The mile markers are actually kilometer markers, and are all made in the shape of the island.  They are all on the mountainous side of the road, and they do not face traffic, so they are almost unnoticeable.  We figure some less-than-successful French engineer was sent here from home to work the roads and decided to have a bit of fun.   The km markers start from the airport and go clockwise around the island, beginning with the 1 km marker.  The km markers also go counterclockwise around the island, beginning with the 1 km marker.  So if you are told a particular sight is located at the 12km marker, you have to determine which km marker to look for.  We noticed that some of the km markers are missing—or perhaps were never placed.  We also noticed that kilometers are measured differently from time to time; for example, the 8km marker might be 1.3 km away from the 7 km marker.

            We finally gave up trying to make sense of the km markers, drove around the island taking in the sights, and spent the afternoon shopping for black pearls, a specialty produced here as nowhere else.  It was very educational, as well as entertaining—at least the first 5 or 10 minutes.  One of us was particularly interested in every black pearl store and roadside stand.  So interested, in fact, that it can be reported that no pearl on the entire island went unturned.  It can also thankfully be reported that no one in our group left any cash with the black pearl salesmen.  On this issue, as far as the future is concerned, one of our members is facing it with some degree of pessimism.

            Tomorrow we’ve scheduled a whale watching tour and some mountain climbing.  Stay with us.

Big longnose butterflyfish

Charlie and Tricia

©2012

No comments:

Post a Comment