Thursday, October 4, 2012

French Polynesia day 4


                We finally recovered from jet lag and the trip from home, so it was time to get physical.  After a big fruity breakfast we drove up to a mountainside site called Belvedere, where our photos of the two big bays of Moorea and the huge mountain in between them will have to take second place to the actual view.  This island may be the most beautiful we have ever encountered, and it seems the trip is just beginning.

View from Belvedere

            The hiking trail to the right took us to another magnificent viewpoint, but it seemed logical to try for an even loftier perch.  So after the first 20-minute hike of the day, back at Belvedere we spotted this sign pointing to the left:

Hiking trail sign at Belvedere

            My French was rusty, so I could not translate to name the three objects that would appear at the end of this particular trail, but Tricia observed that whatever they were, they must be magnificent or the sign wouldn’t be pointing to them.  Not wishing to thwart my companion’s desires, I made the first serious tactical error of the trip, agreeing to follow the trail with her.  At first the rocky trail led us downward for twenty minutes or so; then we ascended another 20 minutes, stopping along the way to observe the many strange plants and trees in this beautiful rain forest.

Giant rain forest tree surrounding Tricia

Giant strangler fig engulfing tourist

            After another few hours (or what seemed what like hours) we finally reached the summit to find a wonderful view amidst three puny pines.  After soaking in the view and watching a couple of disgusting young men running up the mountainside and past us and down another path,  it was time to begin the journey to the starting point.  Dear reader, after many years of careful observation and voluminous note-taking, it has come to my attention that if you reach the destination of a long, winding, rocky mountainous trail and feel totally exhausted before attempting the return trip, you ain’t felt nothin’ yet.  You may want to make a note of this in the journal you use for future trip planning.

Exhausted tourist trying to appear cool at Trois Pinus

Back at the bottom of the mountain and after stops at a few dozen black pearl shops, your writer was greatly relieved that the person who did all the looking did no buying.  But since this part of the adventure was somewhat stressful, we took the afternoon whale watching tour.  You may be aware that humpback whales use some of these islands as breeding and birthing grounds, and this is the time of year when they visit Moorea.  For a small consideration—think of purchasing a small auto—you can board an open boat with ten or so other hardy souls, and head out with masks snorkels, and fins, ready to be in the water with these mammoth creatures.

En route to whale watching

            The view along the ride cannot be adequately expressed.  Diamond-clear blue water which seemed only 2 feet deep, with coral heads scattered about like handfuls of rocks flung out at random.  Beach after beautiful beach, bordered by 50-foot coconut palms.  Mountains reaching for the sky, sometimes protruding into the clouds.  The surf crashing on the protective reef which surrounds the entire island.  The views alone were worth the investment.  But once we headed outside the reef to look for whales (no one had mentioned venturing outside in the 6-foot seas), the real adventure was on.  Thank God we had found seasick medicine and taken it before the trip, and praise Allah for the fact that it worked.  We spotted a few baby whales poking their heads out of the water to observe the outside world, and dolphins appeared here and there amidst the whale spouts.  But we were never able to come close enough to swim with the whales, their sense of curiosity parked on this day.  I was able to swim and observe a small group of dolphins from about 20 feet, and we did thoroughly enjoy the adventure.  But swimming with whales remains one aqueous adventure we have yet to experience.

Moorea from the whale watching tour

            We turned in early to be prepared to pack up and head for Bora Bora after lunch.  But one of us wants to have enough time to make a final pass at the black pearl shops.  Pray for the writer.

Charlie and Tricia
©2012

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